元代纳石矢织金锦残片 | Yuan Dynasty Nasij Gold-woven Brocade Fragments


纳石矢织金锦是元代宫廷与贵族专属的高级织物,也译作 “纳石失”,属于中国古代纺织品文物中极为小众的西域工艺品类。区别于中原传统的宋锦、蜀锦等丝绸织物,它以片金或捻金线为核心纹样原料,采用特有的挖梭技法织入锦缎基底,形成金光璀璨的团窠宝相花、联珠天马纹等图案,质地厚实密致,光泽华丽夺目,是元代中西文化交流与贵族服饰制度的重要实物见证。现存残片多出土于西北元代贵族墓葬与寺院窖藏,带着鲜明的游牧民族审美与中亚织造工艺特征。
Nasij gold-woven brocade was a high-grade fabric exclusive to the imperial court and nobles of the Yuan Dynasty, also transliterated as “Nashishi”. It is a very niche Western craft category among ancient Chinese textile relics. Different from traditional Central Plains silk fabrics such as Song brocade and Shu brocade, it uses gold foil or twisted gold threads as the core pattern material, and weaves them into the brocade base with a special shuttle-picking technique to form resplendent patterns such as medallion baoxiang flowers and pearl-roundel heavenly horses. With thick dense texture and gorgeous luster, it is important physical evidence of Sino-Western cultural exchanges and the noble clothing system in the Yuan Dynasty. Most surviving fragments are unearthed from noble tombs and temple hoards of the Yuan Dynasty in northwest China, with distinct nomadic aesthetic and Central Asian weaving craftsmanship characteristics.
由于丝绸蛋白纤维极易受环境腐蚀,且元代灭亡后该项织造技艺逐渐在内地失传,完整留存至今的纳石矢织金锦几乎绝迹,国内现存的均为墓葬出土的残片,完整纹样的藏品不足百件。它们大多收藏于新疆、内蒙古等地的考古研究机构与丝绸专题博物馆,极少在全国性大众文博展览中展出。公众对元代织物的认知多局限于普通丝绸服饰,对这种融合西域工艺的织金锦了解极少,是中国古代纺织品文物中十分冷门的民族工艺门类。
Due to the extreme susceptibility of silk protein fibers to environmental corrosion, and the gradual loss of this weaving technique in the mainland after the fall of the Yuan Dynasty, almost no complete Nasij gold-woven brocade has survived to this day. All existing pieces in China are fragments unearthed from tombs, with fewer than a hundred collections bearing complete patterns. Most of them are collected in archaeological research institutions and silk-themed museums in Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia and other places, and rarely exhibited in national public cultural and museum exhibitions. The public’s understanding of Yuan Dynasty fabrics is mostly limited to ordinary silk clothing, with very little knowledge of this gold-woven brocade integrating Western crafts, making it a very obscure ethnic craft category among ancient Chinese textile relics.

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