
戗金螺纹漆奁是元代江南地区贵族女性专属的妆奁器物,属于古代漆器中极为小众的戗金工艺门类,区别于大众熟知的剔红、螺钿漆器,它以木胎为底,通体髹黑漆,再用特制的戗针刀在漆面上錾刻出细密的螺纹、卷草纹与花卉纹样,最后于刻痕内填敷金粉,打磨后呈现出黑地金纹的华丽效果。这类漆奁多为多层套盒形制,分层收纳脂粉、簪钗与香料,器型圆润雅致,纹饰纤细繁复,是元代漆器工艺从雄浑转向精丽风格的典型代表。
The gold-incised thread-pattern lacquer toiletry box was an exclusive cosmetic container for noble women in the Jiangnan region during the Yuan Dynasty, and a very niche category of gold-incised craftsmanship among ancient lacquerware. Different from well-known carved red lacquer and mother-of-pearl inlaid lacquerware, it has a wooden base coated entirely with black lacquer. Craftsmen use a special gold-incising knife to engrave fine thread patterns, scrolling grass patterns and floral motifs on the lacquer surface, then fill the carved traces with gold powder. After polishing, it presents a gorgeous effect of gold patterns on a black background. Most of these lacquer boxes are multi-layered sets, storing cosmetics, hairpins and spices in separate layers. With a round and elegant shape and intricate elaborate patterns, it is a typical representative of the Yuan Dynasty lacquer craftsmanship shifting from a vigorous to an exquisite style.
这类戗金漆奁多出土于元代江南地区的士族墓葬,墓主多为官宦家眷,是当时生活精致度与审美品位的具象象征。由于戗金工艺耗时费力,且金粉与漆层易受潮湿环境侵蚀脱落,完整保存至今的元代戗金漆器数量极为稀少,螺纹纹样的精品更是罕见。目前它们大多收藏于地方考古机构与漆器专题博物馆,极少在大众常设展览中展出,公众对元代漆器的认知多集中于剔红与素漆器物,对戗金这类精细特种工艺了解极少,是古代漆器文物中十分冷门的品类。
Such gold-incised lacquer boxes are mostly unearthed from scholar-official tombs in the Jiangnan region of the Yuan Dynasty, whose owners were mostly families of officials, serving as a tangible symbol of life delicacy and aesthetic taste at that time. Due to the time-consuming and labor-intensive gold-incising craft, and the fact that gold powder and lacquer layers are prone to erosion and peeling in humid environments, very few Yuan Dynasty gold-incised lacquerware have been completely preserved to this day, and fine pieces with thread patterns are even rarer. At present, most of them are collected in local archaeological institutions and special lacquer museums, and rarely exhibited in public permanent exhibitions. The public’s understanding of Yuan Dynasty lacquerware mostly focuses on carved red lacquer and plain lacquer objects, with very little knowledge of fine special crafts like gold incising, making it a very obscure category of ancient lacquer cultural relics.
